‘Like Home,’ if Home Is Mexico

Neighborhood Joint

A series of articles profiling favorite local haunts.
What’s your neighborhood joint?

Authentic Mexican restaurants have almost become an urban legend in New York. Transplants from California and Texas, to say nothing of Puebla and Mexico City, stalk the city’s cantinas, often with disappointing results, and trade tips about the best — places like Taqueria Tlaxcalli in Parkchester, a diverse expanse of urban blocks in the Bronx.

“Tlaxcalli” means “tortilla” in the Aztec language Nahuatl, and a hand-painted Aztec mural welcomes visitors to the crowded space. Aztec masks and paintings hang on the yellow walls, and cooks joke in the open kitchen as they rapidly grill and plate meat, fish and tortillas.

“I wanted people to see how the food was prepared,” Mauricio Gomez, the burly owner, said, “because, in our culture, that’s part of how to serve food.”

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